What's onThis week in Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh, at the four faces
Phnom Penh stands where the Tonle Sap meets the Mekong and the Bassac leaves it: the Royal Palace and the riverside, Wat Phnom and the French Quarter, BKK1 and the Russian Market, and the new districts across the water. Here are its grand hotels and Khmer tables, its markets and museum, the memorials that ask for a quiet morning, and trips to Oudong, Koh Dach, Kampot, Kep and Angkor. Every listing is checked against the venue’s own website or an official source, and anything we can’t confirm is left out.
In depth
The city at the four faces
The palace on the river, Wat Phnom’s hill, the Art Deco market and the museum’s sculpture: how to read the capital in a day and a half.
Read the storyPhnom Penh, quarter by quarter
Eight quarters, each with its own guide: the riverside promenade and the palace, Wat Phnom’s hill and Raffles Hotel Le Royal, the villas of BKK1, the small bars of Bassac Lane, the Russian Market, the Art Deco Central Market and the new riverside across the water.
At dusk
Walk Sisowath Quay as the heat goes out of the day, with the palace roofs catching the last of the light across the lawns.
Before you go
Arrival at Techo International Airport, the official e-Visa, dollars and riel, dress for the palace and the memorials, and three days that work for a first visit.
Our advice
Give the memorials a morning of their own
Tuol Sleng opens daily from 8am to 5pm; cover arms and legs, take the audio guide, and leave the afternoon quiet. Neither memorial is suitable for young children. Visiting the memorials
Beyond Phnom Penh
The stupas of Oudong and the weavers of Koh Dach are close by; Kampot’s pepper and Kep’s crab lie on the south coast; Angkor deserves two or three nights of its own.
Our advice
Fly, don’t drive, to Thailand
Overland crossings to Thailand are suspended at the time of writing: fly to Bangkok, and buy your Angkor Pass only from Angkor Enterprise. Phnom Penh essentials
Phnom Penh in depth
The palace and the markets, the Khmer table, the arts the country rebuilt, the grand hotels, the new airport and the rules for buying: the stories behind Phnom Penh.
The back storyPhnom Penh at the tableRoyal recipes, the river and the marketSouth-East Asia with the ULTIMATE guides
Phnom Penh is a short flight from Bangkok and Singapore: the ULTIMATE guides go on from here, by air, by river and by rail.
The ULTIMATE City Guides around the world
See all Asia & Indian OceanPlanning a longer journey? Each city in the network has its own independent guide, written with the same care and checked place by place. Here are the guides that are live, with more on the way.
HOT TOPICS · Have Your Say
From our readers: Phnom Penh’s visitors and locals on its Khmer tables and markets, the riverside, tuk-tuks, the heat and the road to Angkor.
This week's pick
The National Museum of Cambodia
The cool season begins in November: the best weeks to walk the riverside and spend a morning with the sculpture of Angkor at the National Museum.
Find out moreEvery list in the guide
- Restaurants12
- Cafés6
- Bars7
- Hotels8
- Sights11
- Arts & Culture16
- Parks6
- Walks5
- Shopping7
- Health9
- Property6
- Developments5
- Cars & Drivers5
- Getting Around6
- The Riverside & Sisowath Quay guideGuide
- The Royal Palace Quarter guideGuide
- Wat Phnom & the French Quarter guideGuide
- BKK1 & the Independence Monument guideGuide
- Tonle Bassac & Bassac Lane guideGuide
- Toul Tom Poung & the Russian Market guideGuide
- The Central Market guideGuide
- Koh Pich & Chroy Changvar guideGuide
- Oudong guideGuide
- Koh Dach guideGuide
- Tonle Bati & Phnom Tamao guideGuide
- Kampot guideGuide
- Kep guideGuide
- Siem Reap & Angkor guideGuide
- LUX Living guideGuide
- Phnom Penh property guide guideGuide
- Grand hotels guide guideGuide
Plan your day
Know your neighbourhoods
Our favourites right now
Restaurants
- 1Phnom Penh at the table: royal recipes, the river and the marketPhnom Penh · In depth
- 2Restaurant Le RoyalWat Phnom · Royal Khmer cuisine
- 3MalisRoyal Palace quarter · Cambodian cuisine
Cafés
- 1Brown CoffeeAcross the city · Cambodian coffee house
- 2Java Creative CaféBKK1 · Café and art space
- 3ARTillery CaféRoyal Palace quarter · Café and gallery
Bars
- 1The Elephant BarWat Phnom · Hotel bar
- 2SoraWat Phnom · Rooftop bar
- 3The Whisky LibraryWat Phnom · Whisky bar
Hotels
- 1Where Phnom Penh sleeps: from Le Royal to the riverWat Phnom · In depth
- 2Raffles Hotel Le RoyalWat Phnom · Grand hotel
- 3Rosewood Phnom PenhWat Phnom · Grand hotel
Sights
- 1The city at the four faces: Phnom Penh’s great sightsPhnom Penh · In depth
- 2The Royal Palace and the Silver PagodaRoyal Palace quarter · Royal palace
- 3The National Museum of CambodiaRoyal Palace quarter · Museum
Arts & Culture
- 1Dance, sculpture and the 1960s: Phnom Penh’s artsPhnom Penh · In depth
- 2National Museum of Cambodia: the sculpture galleriesRoyal Palace quarter · Museum
- 3Cambodian Living ArtsBKK1 · Performing arts
Parks
- 1The Riverside ParkRiverside · Riverside park
- 2The Royal Palace ParkRoyal Palace quarter · Square
- 3Wat Botum ParkRoyal Palace quarter · City park
Walks
- 1The riverside and the palaceRiverside · Walk
- 2Wat Phnom and the French QuarterWat Phnom · Walk
- 3Streets 178 and 240Royal Palace quarter · Walk
Shopping
- 1Vattanac CapitalWat Phnom · Luxury mall
- 2AEON Mall Phnom PenhTonle Bassac · Shopping mall
- 3Exchange SquareWat Phnom · Shopping mall
Health
- 1Emergencies: police 117, fire 118, ambulance 119Cambodia · Emergency numbers
- 2Royal Phnom Penh HospitalSen Sok · International hospital
- 3Sunrise Japan Hospital Phnom PenhPhnom Penh · Private hospital
Property
- 1Buying in Phnom Penh: strata titles, the river and the new districtsPhnom Penh · In depth
- 2The law on foreign ownership of co-owned buildingsCambodia · The rules
- 3Ministry of Land Management, Urban Planning and ConstructionPhnom Penh · Government ministry
Developments
- 1Techo International AirportSouth of the city · Airport
- 2Vattanac CapitalWat Phnom · Tower
- 3Koh PichKoh Pich · Island district